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From Hama, Syria, we boarded a 12:30am bus for what turned out to be a rather grueling 20 hours of bus rides over the border to Turkey (enduring the most clustered and inefficient immigration exit--courtesy of Syria--that we have yet suffered through during our travels) and, finally, to the amazing region of Cappadocia.
Cappadocia is characterized by wonderfully distinctive and magical rock formations of varying sizes and shapes. The effect is to create an amazing landscape that is equal parts lunar and fairy tale.
Millions of years ago, this region was covered in volcanic lava and ash which, once hardened, is called "tufa". With time and erosion working their magic unevenly, what has been left are the cones, columns and other formations. In addition, the tufa is readily carveable and as such was carved into all sorts of caves, cities, and churches. Looking closely at this rock formation, you can see that a door is carved in its side, leading to a home within.
More of the magical landscape of Cappadocia.
In addition to the landscape, the region is home to a friendly population that carry on their lives of agriculture much as they did hundreds of years ago. Everywhere you can see villagers in horse and mule drawn carriages making their way around.
One of the treats was exploring the underground cities carved from the tufa stone and used as refuge. This is Derinkuyu, which descend for 8 levels into the earth. Very large and intricate, the often exceedingly small passage ways lead to churches, kitchens, sleeping quarter, schools, etc...everything you would expect in a city. These underground cities were often the response of the early Christians, which inhabited this area since the 1st century, to threats from others (such as the 7th century invasion by Arabs). By moving the cities underground, complete with stones to roll in front of the entrances, and complete with armories and soldiers, they felt more secure.
Some of the distinctive "fairy chimneys" of the Cappadocian valleys.
Sunset on the rocks.
At Mustafa's home we enjoyed grapefruit and conversation, while we looked through his photo albums. His home was interesting in its own right, as it was carved from the tufa stone. Notice the table in the center--it is solid tufa still attached to the stone beneath it, and the small sitting area around it has been carved from the tufa stone as well.
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One
afternoon while hiking through the lush, formation, filled valleys of Cappadocia,
we met Mustafa (pictured below). He showed us a shortcut and, in addition,
invited us to his home. While doing so, he showed us the lemon
depots--underground caves carved from the tufa stone that, given their near
constant temperature and humidity, are ideal for storing and preserving
fruit. Fruit from all over Turkey is stored in these caves and released
throughout the year. Here, two of the Turkish women prepare a box of
lemons for shipment. By the way, the cave was wonderfully fragrant, as you
can imagine.
